Costume Jewelry: A history of imitation, invention, and cultural freedom
Before moving into the selection of costume jewelry that is now up in our online shop, we wanted to understand where it comes from—its history, its materials, and the role it has played in shaping personal style.
From imitation to intention
The term costume jewelry emerged in the early 20th century, at a moment when fashion was beginning to detach itself from rigid class systems. Before that, jewelry was primarily a marker of wealth and lineage. Gold, diamonds, and gemstones signaled social position; adornment was not playful; it was declarative.
This changed dramatically in the 1910s and 1920s. Advances in manufacturing made glass stones, plated metals, and synthetic materials widely available. More importantly, attitudes shifted. Jewelry no longer needed to be valuable in itself—it needed to look compelling.
Designers began to understand that jewelry could function as part of an outfit rather than as a permanent asset. This distinction laid the foundation for costume jewelry as an independent category, driven by design rather than intrinsic material value.
The modern woman and the rise of fashion jewelry
No figure embodies this shift more clearly than Coco Chanel. In the 1920s, Chanel deliberately mixed faux pearls with fine jewelry, wearing layers of imitation strands with the same authority once reserved for diamonds. Her approach was ideological: jewelry should serve style rather than status.
At the same time, houses such as Elsa Schiaparelli pushed costume jewelry into the realm of surrealism. Collaborating with artists, Schiaparelli designed brooches shaped like insects, lips, and mythological creatures, objects that had little to do with preciousness and everything to do with imagination.
To this day, Schiaparelli continues to lead the conversation at the intersection of fashion, art, and jewelry. Under the direction of Daniel Roseberry, this legacy was powerfully reaffirmed in the Spring/Summer 2021 collection.
One of the most widely discussed moments was the lung necklace worn by Bella Hadid at the Cannes Film Festival, an anatomical creation that felt uncannily timely in the aftermath of the Covid-19 pandemic.
Hollywood glamour and mass appeal
The 1930s and 1940s marked the golden age of costume jewelry in the United States. Hollywood played a crucial role. Film studios outfitted actresses with dramatic, oversized pieces that read well on camera. These designs—often made of rhinestones, glass, and base metals—created an aspirational look that audiences could later access themselves.
Designers such as Miriam Haskell elevated costume jewelry through craftsmanship. Haskell’s pieces were hand-assembled, intricate, and often indistinguishable from fine jewelry at first glance. Her work demonstrated that imitation did not imply inferiority; it simply reflected a different set of values.
Even women who could easily afford fine jewelry deliberately chose costume jewelry. Icons such as Joan Crawford, Lucille Ball, Gloria Vanderbilt, and the Duchess of Windsor wore fashion jewelry as an integral part of their personal style. Joan Crawford reportedly owned nearly every jewelry collection created by Miriam Haskell between the 1920s and the 1960s.
During World War II, material shortages further accelerated the use of alternative materials. Bakelite, acrylic, wood, and textiles replaced metals and gemstones. These limitations led to some of the most innovative jewelry designs in history.
Other important costume jewelry designers
Trifari remains one of the most influential jewelry houses of the 20th century and played a defining role in costume jewelry throughout the 1930s and 1940s. During World War II, the brand developed iconic designs that combined patriotic symbolism with a high level of craftsmanship. Particularly well known are the so-called Jelly Belly brooches, which paired transparent Lucite elements with gold-toned metals.
Alfred Philippe brought the language of fine jewelry into costume jewelry. After working at Van Cleef & Arpels, he joined Trifari, where he translated classical high-jewelry techniques into fashion jewelry. His designs from the 1940s are characterized by clear forms and refined settings.
Eisenberg Jewelry was known for its bold, oversized brooches adorned with elaborate rhinestone settings. In the 1940s, the company drew inspiration from military insignia, bows, and medal-like forms, transforming them into dramatic statement pieces.
A native Viennese woman also made her mark on the world of costume jewelry and became a multimillionaire entrepreneur. Her name was Hattie Carnegie (born Henrietta Kanengeiser). She first founded the fashion house that bore her name and later developed a distinctive, fashion-driven jewelry line of her own. During the war years, costume jewelry became an integral part of her collections and overall aesthetic.
Postwar optimism and statement design
The 1950s and 1960s embraced excess again. Costume jewelry grew larger, shinier, and more theatrical. Rhinestone parures—matching sets of necklaces, earrings, and bracelets—became symbols of postwar optimism.
Jewelry was meant to sparkle, to signal celebration rather than permanence.
Importantly, these pieces were trend-responsive. Unlike fine jewelry, costume jewelry changed with silhouettes, hemlines, and hairstyles.
Why vintage costume jewelry matters today
Today, vintage costume jewelry is being reevaluated.
In a cultural moment shaped by sustainability, individuality, and archive-driven fashion, these pieces offer something contemporary fine jewelry often cannot: freedom.
They tell stories of changing roles, economic shifts, and aesthetic experimentation. A 1930s glass brooch speaks of resilience during hardship; a 1960s Lucite cuff reflects optimism and futurism. Unlike modern mass-produced accessories, vintage costume jewelry carries the imprint of its era.
Collectors and stylists increasingly seek out unsigned pieces, valuing design over brand recognition. Condition, construction, and originality matter more than materials. What once was “costume” is now understood as historical design.
Beyond “real” and “fake”
The legacy of costume jewelry challenges the idea that value must be inherent to be meaningful. These objects were never meant to be investments; they were meant to be worn, enjoyed, and changed.
Vintage costume jewelry reminds us that adornment is not about what something costs, but about what it communicates.
For anyone wanting to go further, a recently published book provides an in-depth perspective on the origins, design, and cultural relevance of costume jewelry, called "Costume Jewelry", written by Carol Woolton, Maria Luisa Frisa, and Luciano Romano and published by TASCHEN.
photos by Maison Rivée, Getty Images via Unsplash, Ajaila Walker via Dupe